Hot oil treatments are a trusted part of Black haircare routines that have been used for generations. They’re popular because they help hair feel softer, stronger and easier to manage. Since 4C hair naturally struggles to hold moisture, adding warm oils helps reduce dryness, frizz and breakage.

Some people make DIY treatments at home with oils like coconut, olive or jojoba, while others buy ready-made products from beauty supply stores. Hot oil treatments may also help improve shine and protect hair from damage when used correctly. The key is using the right oils, safe heat and a routine that works for your hair needs.

Do you wash your hair before or after a hot oil treatment?

The truth is, a hot oil treatment can be applied before or after washing your hair. Both methods can work well for 4C hair, but each has different benefits.

Doing a hot oil treatment before shampooing is known as a “pre-poo” treatment. This method can reduce dryness from shampooing. Research published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science found that coconut oil can reduce the hair’s protein loss when used either before or after washing. Protein loss makes hair weaker and increases the risk of breakage.

According to Healthline, applying hot oil after washing can help oils absorb better because the hair is free of product buildup. Many hairstylists recommend applying oils to damp hair so moisture can penetrate, then sealing with a cream such as shea butter (also known as the liquid, oil, cream, or LOC method). This often leaves 4C hair feeling softer and more manageable.

No matter which method you choose, avoid using oil that is too hot. Heated oil can burn the scalp or damage your hair. Test the temperature on your wrist first before applying oil to your scalp or hair.

Step 1: Picking the right oil

It’s crucial to start by choosing the right oil for your hair needs. Healthline notes that thick, coily 4C hair responds better to heavier oils, such as coconut oil, which help lock in moisture. According to the Journal of Cosmetic Science, coconut oil is popular because research indicates it may penetrate the hair shaft more effectively than some other oils. Olive oil, avocado oil, castor oil and jojoba oil are also common choices for textured hair.

You can use one oil or mix several together. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research shows that incorporating squalene into your haircare routine mimics the natural properties of sebum. If your scalp feels dry or itchy, adding a small amount of tea tree oil to a carrier oil, such as castor oil, may help soothe irritation. If your hair feels brittle, coconut, olive oil can improve softness. Store-bought hot oil treatments are also an option. Avoid products with a lot of alcohol or harsh fragrances, since they can irritate sensitive scalps.

Step 2: Warm the oil

Warm the oil carefully; it should feel warm, not hot. Pour a few tablespoons into a heat-safe bowl and warm it for a few seconds at a time. You can also place the bowl in warm water instead of a microwave.

Yolanda Lenzy, MD, MPH, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Lenzy Dermatology & Hair Loss Center, cautions readers that some conditions can become worse with the introduction of warm or hot oil. For example, “If you have an itchy, flaky scalp, oil can potentially worsen your condition. Flaking is often caused by yeast on the scalp, and applying oil provides food for the yeast and makes the yeast overgrow.” Dr. Yenzy shares that these individuals might be better off with a steam treatment after completing a conditioner rinse.

For pre-poos, apply the oil to dry hair. If you are doing it after washing, gently towel-dry your hair first, but keep it slightly damp. Damp hair helps trap moisture inside the hair strand during the treatment.

Step 3: Section and apply

To get the absolute most out of your hot oil treatment, start by carefully sectioning your hair into smaller, more manageable parts. As you divide your hair, use your fingers or a high-quality wide-tooth comb to gently detangle any knots from the ends up to the roots. This prevents unnecessary breakage and ensures that every strand is evenly coated with the treatment. Depending on the overall thickness and length of your hair, use secure clips or soft hair ties to divide it into four to eight distinct sections. Working methodically in these smaller zones prevents you from missing spots and makes the entire application process significantly cleaner and more efficient.

Once your hair is completely sectioned and ready, begin applying the warm oil directly at your scalp, smoothing it down to the ends of your hair. Be sure to pay extra attention to those tips, as they are the oldest, most weathered portions of your hair and typically require the most intense hydration. After distributing the oil through the lengths, spend several minutes using the pads of your fingers to deeply massage your scalp in gentle, circular motions. This deeply relaxing practice not only melts away daily stress but also stimulates blood flow to hair follicles, encouraging healthier, more vibrant hair growth.

Step 4: Cover hair

After applying the oil, cover your hair with a plastic shower cap. The cap traps heat, helping the oil stay warm longer and potentially coating the hair more evenly. For added benefits, some people wrap a warm towel around the shower cap or sit under a hooded dryer on low heat for about 15 to 20 minutes.

Do not leave hot oil treatments on overnight. Too much oil on the scalp for prolonged periods can lead to buildup or irritation. 20 to 30 minutes is considered the optimal time range.

Step 5: Rinse out the oil

If the hot oil was a pre-poo treatment, wash your hair afterward using a gentle sulfate-free shampoo. Follow with conditioner or a deep conditioner to restore moisture.

If it’s a post-wash step, rinse out excess oil carefully so your hair doesn’t feel greasy or weighed down. Some people prefer to use a light conditioner afterward, while others go straight into styling.

After rinsing, seal in hydration with a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing cream. Since 4C hair is prone to dryness, the LOC method of layering moisture products helps keep hair softer longer. Protective styles like twists, braids or bantu knots can also help reduce breakage.

Best practices

Consistency matters more than using large amounts of oil. A hot oil treatment once every week or two is enough for most people with 4C hair. Doing treatments too frequently can encourage buildup, especially on the scalp.

Pay attention to how your hair responds to different oils. Your body chemistry will dictate whether an oil works, beyond just your hair type – especially hair porosity, density and even personal preference. If one oil does not work well for you, try another.

Don’t forget to keep your scalp healthy. If you experience severe itching, redness, flakes or hair loss, talk with a dermatologist. Some scalp conditions need medical treatment and cannot be fixed with oils alone.

Avoid overheating your oils

One of the biggest mistakes people make during hot oil treatments is overheating the oil. Very hot oil does not work better. Too much heat can damage both the hair and scalp. Textured hair is already more fragile because the curls and coils create weak points along the strand. Extra heat can amplify breakage.

Dr. Diana Rangaves, PharmD, RPH, tells Blavity Health, “Even when you are more careful with your strands, hair breakage can still occur. Heat damage is one of the most common factors that causes hair damage. However, other factors, such as diet and daily habits, can also contribute to hair breakage or split ends. Losing a few strands of hair a day is normal. However, if you notice that the strands falling out are shorter or your hair feels drier and more brittle overall, you might be dealing with hair breakage rather than hair loss. Healthy hair tends to be shiny, while damaged hair has frayed ends.”

Always warm oils slowly and carefully. If the bowl feels hot in your hands, the oil is too hot for your scalp. Experts recommend using low heat and avoiding boiling temperatures entirely.

Avoid applying hot oil to a scalp with cuts, irritation, or active inflammation. If you have eczema, psoriasis or another scalp condition, check with a dermatologist before trying hot oil treatments.

Which oil makes 4C hair grow faster?

No oil can magically make hair grow faster than your genetics allow. Hair growth speed is largely determined by factors such as age, genetics, hormones, stress levels and overall health. Still, a study in the International Journal of Trichology notes that some oils can support healthier hair by reducing breakage and improving moisture retention.

Coconut oil is one of the most studied oils for hair care. Recent studies cited by Verywell Health suggest it can reduce protein loss in hair because it penetrates the hair shaft more effectively than many oils. When hair breaks less, it appears to grow longer because more length is retained.

Castor oil is another popular option. Although scientific evidence is limited on increased hair growth, a recent Medical News Today article shows that many people use it to seal moisture, not just for the hair but also for the scalp. Rosemary oil is increasingly popular because some studies suggest it may support hair growth in certain cases.

Hot oil treatments can support healthy hair care routines, but hair growth also depends on lifestyle habits. Drinking enough water, managing stress and eating nutrient-rich foods are important. Hair is made mostly of protein, so getting enough protein from foods like eggs, fish, beans, chicken and Greek yogurt can help. Nutrients linked to healthy hair include iron, zinc, vitamin D, biotin, omega-3 fatty acids and vitamins A and C. Leafy greens, berries, salmon, nuts, sweet potatoes and seeds can all support overall hair health.

Bottom line

Hot oil treatments are a great way to care for dry, textured 4C hair. They can reduce breakage, improve softness, add shine and support manageability. Whether you choose a DIY mix at home or a store-bought treatment, the most important thing is to use safe heat and choose oils that work for your hair type. Still, healthy hair does not come from oil alone. Drinking water, eating balanced meals, protecting your hair at night and avoiding excessive heat and tension all play important roles, too. When combined with healthy habits, hot oil treatments are a supportive part of a strong hair care routine.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should you do a hot oil treatment for Black hair?

Black hair is a misnomer, as hair types are not exclusive to a particular ethnic group. Most people with Black hair or 4C hair should aim for hot oil treatment once every one to two weeks. Extremely dry or damaged hair may benefit from weekly treatments temporarily. However, excessive oil use can lead to buildup, heavy hair, or scalp irritation. Celebrity braider Evalyn Denis reminds readers that “consistency is what transforms hair, not one great treatment.”

Do hot oil treatments help frizzy hair?

Yes, hot oil treatments can reduce frizz by coating and softening the hair strand. Celebrity hair stylist Kya Bilal of Extended Beauty Bar in Glendale, California, notes that “hot oil treatments can help reduce frizz by adding moisture, smoothing the hair cuticle and improving softness and manageability.”

Citations

Aarti Rele, Mohile RB. Effect of Mineral Oil, Sunflower Oil, and Coconut Oil on Prevention of Hair Damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science. March 2003. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12715094/

Keis K, Persaud D, Kamath YK, Rele AS. Investigation of Penetration Abilities of Various Oils Into Human Hair Fibers. Journal of Cosmetic Science. September 2005. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16258695/

Kristeen Cherney. Hot Oil Treatment for Hair: Benefits and How To Do It Yourself. Healthline. May 2019. https://www.healthline.com/health/hot-oil-treatment-for-hair

Helen West, RD. Benefits of Using Coconut Oil in Your Hair. Healthline. August, 2021 https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/coconut-oil-and-hair

Maria Fernanda Reis Gavazzoni Dias. Hair Cosmetics: An Overview. International Journal of Trichology. January 2015. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4387693/

Se-Kown Kim, Faith Karadeniz. Biological Importance and Applications of Squalene and Squalane. Advances in Food and Nutrition Research. 2012. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/22361190/

Cathy Wong. Coconut Oil Is Good for Your Hair. Verywell Health. December 2025. https://www.verywellhealth.com/coconut-oil-for-your-hair-4171883

Cecilia Bahou. Castor Oil for Hair: Benefits, Uses, and More. Medical News Today. March 2025. https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/castor-oil-for-hair

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